# How to Clean Leather Boots and Shoes: Brush, Wash, Condition and Protect Source: https://leatherworknest.com/blog/how-to-clean-leather-boots-and-shoes Published: 2026-10-29 Publisher: Leatherwork Nest To clean leather boots and shoes, remove the laces, brush off loose dirt, wipe the leather with a damp cloth and a small amount of leather soap or cleaner, let the pair dry slowly at room temperature, and then condition and polish. Do not use a heater, since quick drying can crack the leather. Suede and nubuck need dry cleaning with a brush and eraser instead. A routine as simple as this, repeated every few weeks, keeps the uppers flexible and the stitching intact. Below are the steps, what to avoid and how to handle salt and water marks. ## Prepare the boots Take out the laces and pull the tongue forward so you can reach all areas. Remove insoles if they come out easily. Knock the boots together outdoors to loosen dried mud, then use a horsehair or soft bristle brush to sweep dirt from the uppers, the welt and the seams where the sole meets the leather. A toothbrush helps in the crevices around the welt stitching, where grit wears the thread. Removing dry dirt first matters because wet cleaning on top of it turns the dirt into paste that can stain light leather. ## Wash the leather Mix a small amount of saddle soap or mild leather cleaner with water as the product directions say, or simply use a damp cloth for lightly soiled pairs. Work with circular motions and keep the cloth only slightly wet. Wipe away the foam and dirt as you go, and rinse the cloth often. Do not submerge boots or soak them in a sink. Too much water can leave stains, make the leather stiff after drying and loosen glue and stitching. If you wear them for work, pay extra attention to the toe box and the heel, which pick up the most grime. [Compare leather cleaners](https://leatherworknest.com/best/best-leather-cleaners) ## Dry them slowly Stuff the boots with newspaper or paper towels to absorb moisture and hold their shape, and replace the paper after an hour or two if it gets soaked. Place the pair in a room with ordinary temperature and some air movement. Skip radiators, fireplaces, hair dryers and car vents. Heat shrinks the leather and pulls out natural oils, which leads to cracks across the flex points. Plan on at least a day of drying, and longer for thick work boots. ## Condition and polish When the leather is fully dry, apply a thin coat of conditioner or boot cream with a soft cloth, working it into the surface, the seams and the welt. Let it absorb, then buff with a clean brush or cloth. Test on a hidden spot first because conditioners can darken some leathers. If you want shine, finish with a wax polish in a matching color. Use thin layers, since heavy wax builds up and looks cloudy. Leave oiled and waxed work boots matte if that is how the maker intended them to look. [Browse conditioners](https://leatherworknest.com/best/best-leather-conditioners) ## Salt marks and water spots White rings from winter salt can often be reduced with a cloth dampened with a mix of equal parts water and white vinegar, wiped lightly across the affected area and then blotted. Test it first, as it may lighten dyed leather. Follow with conditioner afterward. Water spots on smooth leather often fade as it dries. If they remain, dampen the whole panel evenly with a cloth so the color blends, and dry slowly. For a full routine on salt damage, see our winter leather care article. [Winter leather care](https://leatherworknest.com/blog/winter-leather-care-salt-stains) ## Suede and nubuck boots These finishes should stay as dry as possible. Brush the nap with a suede brush, using short strokes in one direction. Rub shiny or stained areas with a suede eraser, then brush again to lift the nap. A protective spray made for napped leather can slow stains, but reapply it according to its directions and test on a hidden area. Never apply cream polish or oil conditioner to suede, because they mat the surface. ## Make cleaning part of a routine Brushing after wear takes under a minute and removes the dirt that does most of the damage. Rotate pairs so each can dry out for a day between uses, and keep cedar shoe trees inside to absorb moisture and keep the shape. If the soles wear down or stitching starts to loosen, a cobbler can often repair them, which is usually better than replacing a well made pair. ## Mistakes that shorten the life of boots Soaking, heat drying and over conditioning are the main culprits. Too much oil softens leather so much that boots lose support and stitching can stretch, especially on thin dress shoes. Skipping the welt and seams is another mistake, since trapped grit cuts the thread over time. A quick brush after each wear prevents most of it. ## Cleaning the insides and the soles Sweat and moisture build up inside boots. Remove insoles, let them air dry and wipe the interior with a cloth dampened with water and a drop of mild soap. Sprinkling baking soda inside overnight and shaking it out can reduce odor. Cedar shoe trees also absorb moisture and help the boot keep its shape. Soles collect mud and oil that transfers to floors. Rinse rubber lugs with a brush and water, but keep leather soles dry, since too much water softens them. Let everything dry before wearing again. ## Waterproofing after cleaning Clean boots take up protective treatments better. A wax, a beeswax based dressing or a spray made for your leather type can slow water entry, though no treatment makes leather fully waterproof and results vary. Apply thin coats, wipe off extra and follow the product directions. Some treatments darken leather, so test on a hidden area. Reapply as needed, especially before wet or snowy seasons, and keep treated boots away from open flames since many waxes and sprays are flammable. ## Related buying guides - https://leatherworknest.com/best/best-leather-cleaners - https://leatherworknest.com/best/best-leather-conditioners - https://leatherworknest.com/best/best-leather-oils